Our Trip to Spain
If you know my dad, you know that the man appreciates a good meal. At the top of his list you’ll find a good steak, lobster, but above all there is paella: the reigning queen. Naturally, his desire to eat a great paella from Valencia is the reason we booked a trip to Spain.
We knew we wanted to see more than one place, so when we booked our trip in March we decided that we would split our time between Madrid and Valencia. There were a few other cities in the running (Barcelona, Ibiza, Mallorca!), but ultimately we wanted an opportunity to experience something different in each city and since Valencia is near the beach, we thought Madrid would offer a different vibe: a city vibe, and it delivered!
In regard to Covid regulations: They change quickly, so we checked frequently to stay up to date with the most current regulations. Vaccinated and boosted adults who received their last shot less than 9 months from the date of travel were cleared. Children under 12 didn’t have to show anything. Adults who’s last shot occurred more than 9 months from date of travel needed to show a negative rapid or CPR. Everyone had to complete a Health form with the Spanish embassy prior to the day of travel. These were the circumstances we encountered, but as already stated, things change rapidly, so always check when you plan.
We had a direct flight from JFK to Madrid, which departed at 7pm on Sunday, but with the duration of the flight and the time change, we arrived at 8am Monday morning. Needless to say, we were exhausted on Monday. We were thinking only of checking in and resting! However, our check-in time was 4pm, so we had to tough it out. Our Airbnb allowed us to drop off our bags, so we dropped off bags and explored our neighborhood. (Luckily the cleaning lady allowed for my dad to stay because he was visibly exhausted and at his age they understood and were accommodating, which we appreciated so much.)
MADRID
Our Airbnb was in Gran Via in the Malasaña neighborhood and we quickly found out that we were close to everything. It was the perfect location. We could walk to almost everywhere on our list or take a quick taxi. On our very first day, we walked around and ended up seeing Puerta Del Sol. We also grabbed some tapas in El Mercado de la Reina. We grocery shopped for the apartment at Dia and in the evening ended up at Mercado De San Miguel.
A note: Most, if not all, places accept credit/debit cards (Visa/Mastercard/Amex). No one would accept American cash. I had exchanged some money through my bank, so that I could have Euro on hand, but in most cases we used our credit/debit cards. It was nice to have Euro though. You’ll definitely need to have some on hand, but credit cards were accepted every where, even taxis.
Puerta Del Sol
The views from our balcony and window.
Back to Mercado De San Miguel because wow! Our tastebuds were blown away. Essentially, it is a market with gourmet food all around. We bought ham, we bought different types of cheeses, olives (the chimichurri ones were to die for!), empanadas, and we even tried some delicious crab cakes. All while enjoying some Rosé cava from the Bodega located inside the market because you can sip and walk around as you wish. It was absolutely amazing!
Later that night, as we walked back from Mercado De San Miguel, we ended in Plaza Mayor and we would come back there a few more times to walk around and to shop for hats in La Favorita.
The next day we got coffee and desserts/breakfast from La Mallorquina and made our way to Parque Del Retiro. This park was often described as their version of NYC’s Central Park and we saw the similarities. It was beautiful. In the park you can rent boats, there are fountains, beautiful architecture, restaurants, and lots of places to enjoy nature. The Palacio de Cristal was beautiful.
In the evening we had tickets to see flamenco at Cardamomo. I was torn about where to purchase tickets from, since there are obviously many options, but the taxi driver recommended Cardamomo and since that was actually the place I was thinking of going with I took that as confirmation. The show was great. They provide a complimentary glass of wine and juice for the kids. Not far from Cardamomo there is Plaza De Santa Ana, so we grabbed some tapas and wine before the show because…why not?
The next day we went to the museum. It was already on our list, but it was also very hot in Madrid this week (105 degrees on one day!), so it was nice to do something where we would be indoors and in air conditioning. We decided to visit Museo Nacional Centro De Arte Reina Sofia because they include more contemporary work and they have Pablo Picasso’s work, including Guernica. What an experience! It was fabulous. The gift shop in the museum is fantastic.
After the museum, we went to La Bodega de Botin for lunch. It is the oldest restaurant in the world and it is known for their suckling pig. We had it and honestly weren’t impressed. We also ordered the white sangria, gambas, the salad, ham, cheese, steak and potatoes. Nothing was overly impressive, but nothing was bad either.
Another note: Be aware of the siesta. Many places including restaurants will close for some hours in the middle of the day.
The next day we went to Templo de Debod. This is a temple that was given as a gift to Spain from Egypt. It is stunning! We saw it as the sun set and the lights came on, which made it even more beautiful. The temple is in a beautiful park (Parque De La Montana) in which there are many areas to have a picnic on a blanket; there is a playground and you might even run into some performers. We saw a couple dancing and a man singing. That night we had dinner at Oven Mozarella, an Italian restaurant. The kids wanted pizza and we listened. We were not disappointed.
On our last day we caught a bullfight in Las Ventas (Plaza de Toros). We were a bit worried that the kids would be traumatized with the killing of the bull at the end, so we got tickets that weren’t too close and that were in the shade. We didn’t stay for the full event. We wanted to experience it, but we weren’t into it and it was personally hard to hear the bull crying and in pain. When looking into purchasing tickets we read a lot of information about this tradition and we read that people usually love it or hate it. The people that love it respect the art, respect the tradition, and respect the bravery of the matador. The people who hate it are usually thinking of the bull’s pain. We also learned that bullfighting dates back to Mesopotamia as a ritual of sacrifice to the Gods.
We had dinner at Steakburger. They serve American food (or their version of it) and so the kids ordered all the wings, mozzarella sticks, and French-fries they could handle.
We had drinks at numerous places around Gran Via. El Corte Ingles has a rooftop bar in which we also grabbed a quick glass of wine in on our last day as we shopped.
What we missed, but wish we would’ve done in Madrid:
Chinatown: There are many restaurants here that we heard a lot about in this neighbor. Apparently, the Asian influence and food is poppin’!
Parque de Atracciones: An amusement park that has rides for the kids.
VALENCIA
The time had arrived to leave Madrid and go to Valencia! We were all so excited to see a new city and get my dad that paella! We also wanted relief from the heat. It wasn’t as hot in Valencia and if it were, we had the beach! We had booked a train through Renfe. My host had said it was quick and reliable, so the week before we left NYC we booked our round trip train tickets from Madrid to Valencia and back to Madrid because our flight to NYC was from Madrid. The train was on time and comfortable. We got to Valencia in a little less than 2 hours. Both of the train stops were close to our Airbnb’s, so it was just a quick taxi ride from each.
Our Airbnb was located in a neighborhood called El Mercat. The roads in the neighborhood are tiny and all cobblestone. I loved it, but we quickly learned that we would have to walk to the main street a few blocks away to get a taxi or call one because there were not many cars just driving around on those streets. There were many restaurants and shops near by and walking tours to see the architecture and to learn the history are very popular.
On our very first day there we really wanted to have some great paella, so we discovered the neighborhood and got ready for dinner. Our host had recommended a few places, so we chose La Valenciana Caballeros. They offered a variety of paellas and we wanted to give my dad options. We learned that the original paella in Valencia was not seafood but rabbit and chicken. They offered that one too! But my dad went with the seafood one of course. My dad didn’t love it, but it was ok because we had many other restaurants to keep trying! We also ordered some appetizers but the highlight there was the pulpo! WOW! Insanely delicious. We went back there for the pulpo again later in our trip.
On our first night we also discovered Plaza del Negret. This was actually a block away from our stay. There we found Cafe Negrito Bar and that was our go-to bar every night. The agua de Valencia is delicious! And the complimentary nuts are addicting! We could not get enough.
There’s one strip of 3 beaches, but our waitress recommended La Patacona, which is at the end of the strip. She said it had lounge chairs we could rent and a bar on the beach, so that’s what we went with. The beach is amazing. You can rent a lounge chair and order drinks and food that are brought right to you. We did the beach on several days of course!
Note: The lounge chairs are near the restaurants and the boardwalk. We rented one for my dad because he would be more comfortable there, but we wanted to be closer to the water. We were planning to lay on our towels, but luckily there were people selling blankets, so we purchased one. DJ rented the lounge chair too because he’s a diva. LOL
Our Airbnb was located near Mercat Central Valencia, which is a public market with lots of vendors. It was similar to the Mercado de San Miguel in Madrid, but the vendors aren’t selling gourmet products. However, it’s the same setup and concept. We shopped here for more paella, horchata, octopus salad, and bottles of wine and cava made locally.
Note: Beware of pickpocketers. We had read about this prior to our travels in our research and it happened to someone while we were in the mercado. Carry your money in front pockets or in a front facing bag or fanny pack.
On certain days there are many vendors that set up in front of the Mercado, so we got lots of souvenirs to bring home from there.
On the remainder of days in Valencia, we walked around the streets, tried tapas from several places, rented bikes, and enjoyed ourselves. We ate at Escalones de la Lonja, Llagurt, Dempanadas, Alma Libre, The Black Turtle, just to name a few.
HIGHLIGHTS
We booked a Catamaran excursion for the whole family. We love to spend a nice day out in the sea. We booked through Mundo Marino and we were very pleased! The staff was welcoming and accommodating. The trip includes paella and a few drinks for each person. They offered, soda, juice, and of course sangria.
The aquarium: Oceanografic Valencia was fantastic! It is located in the Cuidad De Las Artes y Las Ciencias. We biked in this area, we rented boats, we walked around. There’s much to see and do. There are parks and greenery near by. It’s simply beautiful.
Rosalia!
A few weeks after we had booked our trip, Rosalia released her tour dates and we saw that she would be performing in Valencia during the time of our stay, so when tickets went on sale in April we got tickets to see her! She was amazing as expected!